Top In Asia | Hoong Tho, Ipoh

Hoong Tho Restaurant in Ipoh is said to be in business since 1957, and is one of the first Chinese restaurants in the city. The establishment has garnered a strong following as well as a slew of anti-fans along the way, and is currently managed by the third generation.

Hoong Tho, Ipoh | Old section

It was our first time dining at Hoong Tho when we visited Ipoh a few weeks back. I’ve read and heard mixed reviews but decided to go with an open mind. I’m glad I did. Hoong Tho has expanded to two shop lots; the original lot retains its nostalgic interior while the new lot offers air-conditioning and a mish mash of old and new charm.

New dining section at Hoong Tho, right next to the old shoplot.

I prefer the new section as it’s more comfortable.

Caul Fat Spring Roll

We were seated in the new section which I appreciated, as the ambiance was more comfortable especially with little ones in tow. The caul fat spring roll (RM18 – small) was first to arrive – filled with minced pork and vegetables, it was crispy and juicy to bite. I also like how the caul fat casing isn’t gamey at all.

Hoong Tho Mee

Remember to add a bit of black vinegar to liven up the flavour

The owner recommended that we try the Hoong Tho mee (RM11 – small); yee mee noodles cooked in a thick gravy laced with vegetables, minced pork, prawns and egg. This came topped with a spoonful of seafood powder (I believe it’s a mix of shrimp and cuttlefish) for umami. Best to add a bit of black vinegar into the noodles as it brings out the sweetness of the gravy.

Gui Hwa Glass Noodle

Hoong Tho’s wok hei game is strong, evident from the aroma of the Gui Hwa glass noodle (RM11 – small). This is a Cantonese classic that’s hard to come by and not everyone cooks it well. I rarely see this dish in KL and even when I do, there’s little or no wok hei inside.

The chef at Hoong Tho executed this perfectly; the glass noodles retained a nice bite while the crab meat and vegetables were given the baptism of fire. The noodles also had a good amount of crispy pork lard for more flavour.

Cantonese Fried Kuay Teow with Beef

Kuay teow had a good dose of wok hei and the beef slices were adequately tender.

Cantonese fried kuay teow with beef is a crowd favourite at Hoong Tho, so we insisted on a medium portion (RM30) out of greed. You get tender beef slices and fluffy, wok-fried hor fun in egg gravy infused with green onions. Pretty good, but if I had to choose, I’d pick the gui hwa glass noodles over this.

Chicken Fried Rice

We ordered the chicken fried rice (RM11) for my helper and it also had a good amount of wok hei. Tastewise, I found it a tad plain as the rice was missing flavour from the pork lard. That said, a bit of sambal belacan gave the rice the kick it needed.

Claypot Pork Belly with Salted Fish

I spotted a few tables ordering the claypot pork belly with salted fish so I followed suit with a small portion (RM18). This had more gravy (less char) than expected but in terms of flavour, it was not bad.

Caramel Custard

Remember to order the caramel custard (RM6) to end the meal at Hoong Tho. They do it quite well (as I’d expect from an establishment of this reputation) – soft, smooth and not overly sweet with a deep flavour from the caramelised sugar.

What we ordered at Hoong Tho Restaurant

I was told it’s very chaotic on weekends so if you’re planning to visit Hoong Tho, be prepared to wait. We went for dinner on a weekday and managed to get a table almost immediately. The old section was completely full; mostly by regulars who like the old vibe.

Bangsar Babe on Facebook Bangsar Babe on Instagram

Ambiance: 6/10

Price: 6.5/10

Food: 7/10 (non-halal)

Verdict: I enjoyed the Gui Hwa glass noodles and caul fat spring roll best. Better to go early to secure a table.

Do you have a food recommendation? Tell us!