Top In Asia | Lumi Yakitori, Taman Tun Dr Ismail

Fusing Japanese and Italian inspirations, TTDI’s new Lumi Yakitori shimmers with playful temptations, from Japanese rice arancini to teriyaki onsen egg pizzas.

This Malaysian-Japanese collaboration showcases the heritage of Akita-born co-founder Sasaki Yaeko, who has lived in Malaysia since 2008. Sasaki is married to a Malaysian chef who worked in Japan for two decades and holds a Japanese government-issued certification of cooking skills.

Combining a pork-free kissaten with a reasonably priced kushiyaki bar, Lumi Yakitori is open every evening for hearty meals. Come for charcoal-grilled chicken skewers, stay for air-dried saba mackerel fish, topped with truffle paste for cross-continental fun.

Discover touches of Japanese arts and culture too, from a vibrant mural of Japanese festival-inspired floats to Sasaki’s own family crest, emblazoned on the private room’s entrance.

Fun fact: This is Sasaki’s fourth restaurant in Malaysia, featuring food that reminds her of home, following Yakitori Syokudo Yae in Petaling Jaya, Izakaya Syokudo Yae in Puchong and Yakiniku Syokudo Yae in Kepong.

True to Lumi Yakitori’s name, skewers rank high on its specialities, seasoned with the simplicity of salt and pepper to spotlight the freshness of the produce, flame-cooked over charcoal to bring forth a beautiful balance of clean, smoky flavours.

Start with chicken-based yakitori: As illustrated on Lumi’s logo, Negima (RM6; chicken thigh) is the top cut, super-succulent without tasting oily. Everything is excellent, from classics like Bonjiri (RM5; chicken tail) to Wing (RM8), Skin (RM5; perfectly charred for a crunchy bite) to Tsukune (RM8; house-made chicken meatball, fleshy and full-bodied).

Truffle Saba Ichiyaboshi (RM78) is a highly recommended signature.

The large mackerel is air-dried overnight, deepening its savoury depth before descending on the grill for smoky, crisp-skinned butteriness.

There’s an extra-special twist: The fish is topped with truffle paste before cooking, lending a lovely aroma that enhances the saba’s lusciousness. We would happily return purely for this!

Other gorgeous grills span seafood, beef and vegetables.

White Tuna (RM8) is typically served as sashimi in many restaurants, skewered here at Lumi with a rich, rounded taste.

Beef Tongue (RM18) is a pure protein powerhouse, with a tender chew and mellow beefiness, a testament to Lumi Yakitori’s top-quality grilling capabilities.

For fibre, fill up on Capsicum (RM6), Cherry Tomatoes (RM6), Ginkgo (RM5), Okra (RM5) and Fresh Corn (RM5) to complete the comprehensive selection.

For starters, Lumi’s Zensai whets the appetite with its medley of Japanese classics and Italian creations.

The Arancini (RM18) is unique: Instead of Italian arborio rice, Lumi relies on the stickier Japanese rice, resulting in a creamier, silkier centre, laced with molten mozzarella cheese, cushioned with tomato gravy and crowned with Parmesan sprinkles.

Spicy Edamame (RM13) is sensational for snacking, gently spiced with kitchen-crafted miso paste, while the Bittergourd Salad (RM25) is an Okinawan original of raw bittergourd blanched in ice water for reinvigorating freshness, buoyed by bonito flakes, seaweed and teriyaki sauce.

For mains, check out the Teriyaki Onsen Egg Pizza, built on house-folded dough with a delightful lightness of crust, sweet-salty with soy-glaze authenticity, dreamy with a runny egg (RM28), and Black Pepper Udon, slippery-smooth with a shower of bonito flakes (RM18).

For sharing, the Sausage Platter (RM58) packs in plump sausages of chicken, beef and lamb, pleasantly juicy with real meatiness instead of artificial fillers, rounded out with pickles, grain mustard and mashed potatoes.

All of Lumi Yakitori’s fare pairs perfectly with its beverages.

The Kirin Yuki Beer (RM20) represents a snowy sensation, poured into a frosted glass for the ultimate ice-cold treat. If you’re having a long, hard day, this will soothe your senses.

Also sip on the Original Highball (RM18), comprising whisky with Lumi’s own house-made soda for a lively touch.

House-made Umeshu (RM188 for a bottle, RM25 for a glass) is also available, befitting a respectable Japanese restaurant, laced with honey for a nectarous lift.

Celebrate your next special occasion at Lumi Yakitori and request the Giant Glass, which can be poured with your choice of house wine, beer or a wide variety of sake. It’s huge, making for a memorable photo opportunity!