Restoran Dapur Sarawak: Muslim-friendly kolo mee done right, funky laksa Sarawak & authentic local snacks

I’ll admit it: Sarawak fare and I have been nothing more than polite acquaintances. Authentic Borneo flavours are surprisingly elusive in Kuala Lumpur, and when you do stumble upon them, the price tag often has the last laugh. So my knowledge of the region’s cuisine has stayed regrettably surface‑level.

Then Restoran Dapur Sarawak flickered onto my radar like a lighthouse off the Kuching coast. It isn’t a flashy chain, just a single shop buoyed by Google reviews from Sarawakians who swear it’s the real deal. 

By noon the dining room was packed shoulder‑to‑shoulder with office workers. Ordering is a choose‑your‑own adventure: scan a QR code or flag a server for the classics, then swing by the separate counter for nibble‑worthy slices of treats like kek lapis and kek belacan.

What I tried at Restoran Dapur Sarawak

When exploring Sarawak cuisine, there’s one golden rule in my book: always start with kolo mee. It’s practically the ambassador of the state’s culinary offerings. At Restoran Dapur Sarawak, the classic version starts at RM9— but I went straight for the Special Kolo Mee (RM11.50). Consider it the journalistic surcharge for due diligence.

What arrived was an honest, workmanlike heap of pale egg noodles, springy enough for a delightful bite, glistening in a slick of aromatic lard‑free oil. Scattered atop: shreds of chicken, surprisingly tender slivers of beef, plump prawns, and a flutter of fried shallots and scallions. A clear soup, soy‑tinged and flecked with taugeh, stood politely to the side like a well‑mannered chaperone.

As I tossed everything together, the shallot aroma lifted off the bowl like a familiar greeting. The noodles shimmered invitingly, and I couldn’t dig in fast enough. Halal versions of kolo mee often read as lacklustre to me. This one, dear reader, wrote a different story. Each noodle strand clung lovingly to its aromatic dressing. 

10 best eats in Ampang to take your taste buds on a global tour

The beef was almost apologetic in its tenderness. The chicken, alas, played the lone discordant note as it was extremely tough to chew. Then there were the prawns. They were clean, de‑shelled, and gratifyingly bouncy, as if spring‑boarding off your taste buds. A quick toss of the accompanying soup lent the noodles extra gloss and just enough soy‑backed depth to keep each bite sprightly rather than stodgy.

But I hadn’t crossed town merely to flirt with one dish. Naturally, I couldn’t resist trying the Laksa Sarawak (RM9.50) as well. It arrived piping hot, with rice noodles nestled beneath strips of omelette, shredded chicken, prawns, and a creamy reddish broth.

The first sip was a curveball— slightly fermented in flavour, likely from belacan or a punchy coconut milk. The broth was thinner than I’d hoped, but well-seasoned.

The sambal and lime on the side helped cut through the funk, and the noodles were silky smooth. Still, my heart belonged to the kolo mee.

For dessert, I grabbed a piece of Kuih Penyaram (RM1) and Kek Lumut (RM3.50) from the counter. The Kek Lumut was pleasant, like a richer, butterier cousin of kek lapis. But the Kuih Penyaram definitely stole my heart. Crisp at the edges, soft and chewy in the center, and not overly oily. It was easily one of the best I’ve had.

Final thoughts

Restoran Dapur Sarawak offered a mixed but memorable experience. The Special Kolo Mee alone was worth the visit for its addictive flavour. It’s the kind of dish that quietly lingers in your memory and tempts you back.

The Laksa Sarawak, on the other hand, didn’t quite strike the right chord for my palate, though others might enjoy its distinct tang. Still, with solid snacks and that delicious kolo mee, it’s safe to say this won’t be my last trip down this Sarawakian lane.

Expected damage: RM9 – RM11.50 per pax

Restoran Ahmad Muzakin: Muslim-owned claypot chicken rice joint with tender duck & must-try crispy wings