Nasi Lemak Kak Chuk: 25-year-old stall draws crowds even after 12am for its nasi lemak kangkung

Kampung Baru is a place best experienced after dark. By day, it’s the perfect picture of serenity, especially when the Kuala Lumpur sun decides to hide behind the clouds rather than melt your face right off. But when night falls, it awakens as a food lover’s paradise, with the iconic Kampung Baru gate welcoming you in place of pearly gates.

The street is lined with restaurants and food stalls packed side by side, their glow peeking from behind rows of parked cars and motorcycles. Competition? We don’t know her. There are at least 3 spots here that have been serving nasi lemak longer than I’ve been alive. One of the long-standing names is Nasi Lemak Kak Chuk, a familiar presence for over 2 decades.

Since 2000, the stall has been set up right in front of the owner’s home, with tables laid out to display steaming pots of nasi lemak and an array of side dishes. This Ramadan, they open from 11pm until everything is gone — perfect for a late-night moreh before suhoor.

What I tried at Nasi Lemak Kak Chuk

A basic Nasi Lemak Biasa — featuring your choice of fried or boiled egg, sambal, ikan bilis, cucumber slices, and kangkung (water spinach) — starts at RM5. Extra toppings, including more sambal, come at an additional RM2. And no, there are no peanuts here! If you’re craving a heartier meal, lauk additions like paru or ayam will bring the total to RM10.

I opted for Nasi Lemak Berlauk, pairing it with fried chicken. While there’s space to dine in, I decided to take mine to go — it was already close to 1am, and being far from home at that hour made me a little uneasy.

The portion was, without a doubt, generous. Packed tightly, the drumstick peeked out from the paper, struggling to stay contained. Once unwrapped, the nasi lemak, still warm, released an unexpected but bold aroma of kangkung. Surprised, I dug in.

The rice — fragrant with the rich aroma of santan, the kind that could make your taste buds sing (and your doctor wince at your next cholesterol check) — was, unfortunately, on the tougher side.

Had it been moister, it might have been among the best coconut rice I’ve ever tasted. The flavours were bold, a refreshing change from the more muted versions commonly found these days, making the imperfect texture all the more regrettable.

Nasi Lemak Serunai: Addictive sambal bawang goreng & crispy sotong, available till 10pm daily

The sambal, on the other hand, was a showstopper. A deep, fiery red, it had even stained the ikan bilis in the tight package, creating a beautifully messy masterpiece. Smoothly ground and cooked to perfection, it delivered an unapologetic punch of red chilli flavour.

While it didn’t exactly burn (though, as someone who can munch on bird’s eye chilies without flinching, my spice tolerance may not be the best benchmark), the smoky, peppery notes were right on the throat, leaving only the slightest trace of sweetness at the very tip of the tongue.

The only downside? The sambal had taken on an unwelcome hint of kangkung — a taste I wasn’t particularly thrilled about. But more on that in a moment.

Now, about the kangkung. I actually love kangkung — it’s one of my favourite greens, second only to kailan. But that night, it was the older, tougher kind, its dark hue and firm texture more reminiscent of pandan leaves than the tender, juicy stems of young water spinach. When boiled, it unleashed a slightly musty aroma, amplified tenfold, which clung stubbornly to the rest of the dish.

The hard-boiled egg was decent — cooked just past the ideal point, making it a tad resistant to slicing with a spoon, but nothing too overdone.

The fried chicken, however, was a letdown. The moment they placed it on my nasi lemak, I suspected it wasn’t fully cooked. Sure enough, cutting into it was a struggle, and closer to the bone, there was still a hint of blood. The seasoning itself was simple but pleasant, with turmeric taking centre stage.

Final thoughts

Overall, Nasi Lemak Kak Chuk is a solid choice if you’re craving nasi lemak in the area. Personally, I’d say it beats the mainstream option that must not be named for the sake of society peacekeeping — but let’s just say it rhymes with cuppa Joe.  

My main concerns weren’t with the flavours, but rather the execution. The rice was too firm, the kangkung had an overpowering grassy bitterness, and the chicken was undercooked. I suspect the Ramadan rush might have played a role in these inconsistencies, and I have a feeling it would be much better on a regular night.

Expected damage: RM5 – RM10 per pax

Nasi Lemak Profesor: Nasi lemak basmati with sunny-side-up & spicy paru – open till 4am daily this Ramadan