A blooming garden in the ‘driest’ place on earth: Chasing Desierto Florido

A blooming garden in the ‘driest’ place on earth: Chasing Desierto Florido

LifestyleSingapore

You step off the bus near Copiapó, the air smells of wet dust and salt. The hills look sun-scorched until your eyes catch on the vast sea of blooms.

The Atacama, one of Earth’s driest non-polar deserts, only blooms when rare rains wake seeds that have waited years, sometimes a decade, for their cue.

Why it blooms at all, the quick science

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  • Around 15 mm of rain, plus warmer conditions, flips the switch for a mass germination known locally as Desierto Florido.
  • Coastal fog, called camanchaca, keeps moisture on leaves and soil through the night, a quiet life-support system in bloom years.

Star of the blooms, Cistanthe longiscapa, is so tough that researchers study it to understand extreme drought survival in deserts. Scientists have counted nearly 200 flower species in the superbloom region.

In early July 2024, white and purple blooms appeared near Copiapó after unusual mid-winter rains, a rare off-season surprise, with CONAF noting it was not yet a full classic “flowering desert,” but conditions were developing.

Where to point your boots

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  • Copiapó to Vallenar corridor, with detours toward Quebrada de los Sapos and Chehueque, often lights up first when the rains align.
  • Llanos de Challe National Park, coastal dunes, cacti, foxes, and frequent blooms in good years, managed by Conaf.

Know the rules

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Chile created Desierto Florido National Park in 2023, about 57,107 hectares south of Copiapó, to safeguard the bloom and its wildlife.

  • The park is open Tuesday to Sunday, entry cutoff typically 18.00 Hrs, with a strict stay-on-route guidance to protect dormant seed banks beneath the soil.
  • No picking, no off-trail driving, no pets, and avoid trampling crusts; the next bloom literally depends on what stays underground this year.

Timing it, smartly

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  • Visiting time: In typical years, September to November, as spring warmth arrives in northern Chile’s Atacama Region.
  • Watch the rain: If late-winter or early-spring fronts bring totals near or above 15 mm in the Copiapó-Vallenar zone, a bloom can build fast, sometimes within weeks.
  • Check the updates: Track Conaf Atacama updates and regional forecasts in late August to time your arrival.

Micro-guide for fast planners

  • Fly into Copiapó, Desierto de Atacama Airport, with direct service from Santiago on Chilean carriers. Check current routes and times before you book.
  • Base towns for day trips, Copiapó, Caldera, Bahía Inglesa, and Vallenar, all within striking distance of bloom corridors in good years.
  • Bring sun protection, water, sturdy shoes, and patience; flowers shift week by week, so flexibility beats a rigid itinerary.

Expect waves of fuchsia and lilac from pata de guanaco and companions, then yellows and whites as other species cycle in, a living time-lapse that can change in days.

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This article was first published in Wego.



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