1-day Jalan Besar itinerary
Back when I was a student, the cool places to hang out were Haji Lane in Bugis, Tiong Bahru, and Joo Chiat, especially if you loved cafe hopping. Then I started working at Eatbook—our office is located near Jalan Besar—and realised how many solid eating spots in this area were flying under the radar.
Unfortunately, I can’t gatekeep this place any longer, as Time Out has just named it one of Singapore’s coolest neighbourhoods for 2026, ranking it 20th on its global list.
Jalan Besar means “big road” in Malay, and it started as two swamps by the Rochor and Kallang rivers. Hardware suppliers, auto garages, and lighting wholesalers moved in, and when the area urbanised in the late 1800s, cheap eateries followed to feed the immigrant labourers. Many of those old-school places still stand, now alongside newer cafes, bars and indie shops.
Without further ado, here is my 12-hour Jalan Besar itinerary, featuring a list of tried-and-approved food places for locals and tourists, with a stop at a cat cafe in between. If you’d like to explore more of Singapore after this, our 12-hour Orchard food itinerary is a good next stop.
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Breakfast: Sum Dim Sum
Ask any Singaporean where to eat dim sum in Jalan Besar, and most will say Swee Choon. I would too, but you probably don’t need our itinerary to tell you to go—do a quick Google search and most guides will point you there. One lesser-known spot that I think is on par is Sum Dim Sum, just down the road from Swee Choon’s flagship.
Sum Dim Sum has a modern shophouse concept, with two storeys and a mix of indoor and alfresco seating. The menu covers everything from steamed and pan-fried dim sum to baked buns, rice rolls, noodles, porridge, and desserts, plus refillable Chinese teas from $2, such as Pu Er, Tie Guan Yin, and Chrysanthemum.
A crowd favourite is the Signature Crispy Pork Bun ($6.90+ for three pieces), which features a distinctive green shade from pandan leaves. You’ll smell the pandan fragrance as soon as it lands on your table. The pastry is crispy and flaky on the outside, and it breaks open to reveal juicy chunks of char siew in a sweet sauce.
I also recommended the Golden Custard Bun ($5.90+ for three pieces): fluffy steamed buns with a molten salted egg custard centre. For something more filling, the Moonlight Hor Fun ($13.90+) sees silky, wok-charred flat rice noodles topped with a runny egg yolk.
Read our Sum Dim Sum review.
Address: 161 Jalan Besar, Singapore 208876
Opening hours: Mon-Thurs 11:30am to 12am, Fri 11:30am to 2am, Sat 10:30am to 2am, Sun 10:30am to 12am
Website
Sum Dim Sum is not halal-certified.
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Lunch: Jiale Kopitiam
You won’t find a cheaper lunch in the neighbourhood. Jiale Kopitiam, a traditional Singaporean coffeeshop run by the same people as 131 Mookata, has an all-you-can-eat cai fan buffet for just $7, with no GST or service charge. For the unfamiliar, cai fan, also known as economy rice, is a classic Singaporean meal where you pile a plate with rice or noodles and a selection of toppings such as meats, vegetables, and tofu.
The buffet runs from Monday to Friday, 10am to 2pm, and you get four hours to eat as much as you like. The spread rotates daily, so what’s on offer depends on when you visit. The same coffeeshop also runs a mookata buffet from 12pm for $19.90 if you want to come back for dinner.
For your base, the Yangzhou Fried Rice or springy Ee Fu Noodles make a great canvas for everything else on your plate. I’d typically pile on the Long Bean with Eggplant, Scrambled Egg with Corn, and Lychee Fried Fish, which has soft, tender chunks of fish coated in a sweet-tangy lychee sauce, plus whole lychee pieces for a fruity chew.
Other notable toppings include Honey-Glazed Pork, Masala Chicken, Hotplate Tofu, and Chicken Nuggets.
Read our Jiale Kopitiam review.
Address: 28 Kelantan Road, Singapore 200028
Opening hours: 8:30am to 12am
Website
Jiale Kopitiam is not halal-certified.
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Coffee: Space 23
Jalan Besar’s coffee scene goes back further than you might think. Chye Seng Huat Hardware, a pioneer of Singapore’s third-wave coffee scene, opened here in 2012, and plenty of cafes have followed since. One of them is Space 23, a relatively new cafe that opened in June 2025, one of my favourite coffee spots in the area.
The cafe has floor-to-ceiling windows by the entrance that let in plenty of natural light, and the tables are generously spaced out, so it never feels cramped even when it’s busy. It’s also work-friendly, with a handful of power points.
The coffee here is consistently well executed. My go-to order at any cafe is a Piccolo ($5.50), a small drink of espresso topped with a little steamed milk in a small glass. Space 23’s espresso is well extracted, with nutty, chocolatey notes that pair well with the silky, creamy milk.
If you’re not in the mood for coffee, the Iced Matcha Latte ($8.50+) has a good milk-to-matcha ratio, so the earthy tea flavour comes through without being overpowering. It’s on the sweeter side, so ask for less sugar if you prefer.
Read our Space 23 review.
Address: 393 Jalan Besar, Singapore 209005
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 9am to 5pm
Website
Space 23 is not halal-certified.
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Activity: Gem Cat Cafe
Image credit: @GemstoneSG
After all that feasting, you’ve earned a break, and there’s no better way to take it than with some cats. Gem Cat Cafe is a bit different from most cat cafes in Singapore, which tend to house a mix of breeds. All six cats here are British Shorthairs, the round-faced, big-eyed, thick-furred breed behind the “can has cheezburger” meme cat.
Image credit: @GemstoneSG
They’re known to be affectionate, and the staff will show you how to pick them up properly if you want a cuddle. They’re playful too, so grab a string toy or feather wand at the cafe and watch them go.
Image credit: Gem Cat Cafe via Google Maps
Gem Cat Cafe is split into two areas: a cafe section with tables and chairs, and a play area with the cats, so both cats and guests don’t get overwhelmed. Entry is $22 for one hour or $32 for 90 minutes, and it includes a free scoop of gelato. I highly recommend booking in advance to secure a slot.
Image credit: Kang Jonathan via Google Maps
A lean food menu is also available, serving toast sandwiches ($6.50) with fillings such as Bolognese Beef, Chicken Ham With Scrambled Eggs, and Tuna Mayo. Drinks include coffee from $4, fruit teas for $5, and homemade sodas for $4.50.
Address: 304 Orchard Road, Singapore 238863
Opening hours: Tue-Sun 1pm to 7pm
Website
Dinner: Abundance
Whenever my colleagues and I celebrate a birthday, a farewell dinner, or any other excuse to get everyone together, someone will suggest Abundance. It’s known for hearty Taiwanese comfort food, with a craft beer list to wash it all down.
Start with the Gua Bao ($8.90++)—chonky braised pork belly in a steamed lotus bun with house-roasted coarsely ground peanuts, pickles, and coriander. I love its savoury-sweet profile, but it can get messy, so keep wipes handy. Another dish I never fail to order is the Crispy Chicken Bun ($8.90++), which uses the same soft lotus bun but is stuffed with a whole deep-fried chicken thigh, spicy mango slaw, and a Thai-style peanut sauce.
For something more filling, order their famous Niu Yolk Fried Rice ($19++). For context: Abundance was founded by ex-Din Tai Fung chefs, and the Taiwanese chain is known for its egg fried rice, which may explain why this one is so good. The short-grain rice is fried in beef fat and topped with slow-cooked beef short rib that’s torched to finish. Mix in the wobbly onsen egg for a creamy finish.
Even if I’m stuffed, I never skip the Peanut Ice Cream Roll ($6.90++) for dessert. It’s a famous Taiwanese street snack of vanilla ice cream wrapped popiah-style with ground peanuts and fresh coriander.
Read our Abundance review.
Address: 399 Jalan Besar, Singapore 209008
Opening hours: Daily 11am to 11pm
Website
Abundance is not halal-certified.
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Dessert: Siyuan Desserts
End the night at Siyuan Desserts, which is hidden inside a cheongsam tailor shop. Circular windows along the walls let you peek into the studio where traditional gowns are made, and if you’re lucky, you might even spot the seamstresses at work.
The space has an old-school feel, with heavy wooden chairs and classic Chinese decor that match the desserts on offer.
Start with the 3 Mini Bowls ($6.50) to sample the almond, sesame, and walnut pastes. The sesame paste is my favourite, with a nutty flavour and a smooth, creamy texture. It isn’t too sweet either, which makes it a good pick for older folks.
I’m not an orh nee fan, but my friends who are swear by the Orh Nee ($5.80), a classic yam paste dessert with ginkgo nuts. Be sure to mix in the tangerine peel on top for a burst of citrusy flavour. For something lighter, the Cheng Teng with Peach Gum ($5.50) comes warm or chilled, and is generously packed with snow fungus, red dates, longan, and peach gum.
Read our Siyuan Desserts review.
Address: 111D King George’s Avenue, Singapore 208559
Opening hours: Tue-Thurs, Sun 1pm to 9:30pm, Fri-Sat 1pm to 10pm
Tel: 8922 9094
Website
Siyuan Desserts is not halal-certified.
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12-hour Jalan Besar food trail
I’ve worked near Jalan Besar for four years, and I’m still finding new places to check out, so 12 hours is nowhere near enough to cover it all. But if that’s all the time you have, this itinerary hits the must-haves.
If you’re also visiting Chinatown, you can walk to Boon Keng MRT Station and take the train there—our Chinatown food itinerary will help you make the most of your time. If you’re after more cafes, our Katong and Joo Chiat food itinerary has plenty of aesthetic cafes to explore.
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Feature image adapted from @GemstoneSG.
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