Mali’s Corner: Trying the “best char kway teow in town since 1997” — 2 different versions!

While I usually raise an eyebrow (or two) whenever someone claims a certain eatery serves the “best” of anything, I’ve learned it’s often wiser — and far more peaceful — to simply nod, smile, and let taste be the wonderfully subjective thing it is. But when a restaurant dares to crown itself with such a bold title? Now that gets my attention. Case in point: Mali’s Corner.

Proudly boasting to have the “best char kway teow in town since 1997,” Mali’s Corner is located at Setapak — a lively spot where finding a makan place is as easy (and as fun) as shooting fish in a barrel.

At Mali’s Corner, diners are presented with not just one, but 2 enticing versions of char kway teow. I know, I know — the very name of the dish conjures images of classic wok-fried noodles with the smoky magic of wok hei. Yet, if you grew up within a Malaysian Malay community, you’ll know that “char kway teow” often refers to kway teow basah — the saucy, wet version that’s just as beloved.

Here, you can choose between the classic “Chinese style” char kway teow — dry, smoky, and delish — or the “Malay style” rendition, drenched in a savoury, slurpable gravy. You place your order at the counter, wait for your order to be called, and then claim your plate yourself.

What I tried at Mali’s Corner

To keep things fair and square, I decided to order both versions — stripped down and simple, just the way I like to judge a dish. For my first pick, I went with the Chinese-style Char Kway Teow Udang Biasa (RM9). At first glance, I was genuinely impressed by the char marks searing a few of the noodle strands, a promising sign for any good char kway teow. The dish arrived with 2 decently-sized prawns — proportionate to the price, which felt like a fair deal.

However, upon taking my first bite, the experience took a slight detour. The immediate hit of sweetness from the soy sauce came first, swiftly followed by a wave of saltiness. It seemed they might have been a little heavy-handed with the soy sauce, which unfortunately masked the more delicate flavours that could have come from the other ingredients. 

As for the wok hei — that smoky essence that makes or breaks a good char kway teow — it was disappointingly subtle, barely making its presence known. The overall taste leaned towards what you might expect from bulk-fried kway teow at a bazaar.

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On a brighter note, the prawns were alright and cooked to perfection, holding their firmness without slipping into that dreaded mushy territory. They weren’t deveined, though — hardly a surprise to any of us who’ve spent enough time eating at casual spots like these.

For my 2nd dish of the day, I moved on to the Malay-style Char Kway Teow Kerang Biasa (RM9) — the wet rendition of the dish.

Despite the generous amount of sauce pooling around the noodles, they were cooked surprisingly well. Slightly softer than my personal preference, perhaps, but thankfully still holding their structure without turning into a mushy mess. This time around, the seasoning was noticeably better balanced; the savoury richness of the eggs truly took centre stage.

The cockles, while abundant, were on the tiny side — some so small you’d almost miss them if you weren’t paying attention. A few had an odd aftertaste, though their petite size helped disguise it from becoming too distracting. 

Mali’s Corner also generously offers a free-flow of condiments, including chopped pickled green chillies and fiery bird’s eye chillies for you to jazz up your plate. I opted for the classic pickled chillies — a nostalgic favourite — but was left a little disappointed. They carried a sharp sourness, yes, but it leaned more toward a “fermented” kind of tang rather than the crisp, bright sourness you typically hope for in a good pickle.

Final thoughts

Not gonna lie, the Chinese-style Char Kway Teow was a bit of a letdown. Had they been a little more mindful with the soy sauce — allowing the red chilli paste to shine through — the dish might have told a very different story. The Malay-style Char Kway Teow, on the other hand, was undoubtedly the better of the two, offering a more satisfying and balanced flavour. 

But is it truly the best in town, as they so boldly claim? In Setapak — quite possibly. Yet across the wider landscape of KL? I’m afraid not. I’ve definitely crossed paths with char kway teow that packed more punch and left a more lasting impression.

Expected damage: RM9 – RM12 per pax

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